Meandering through the eastern Oregon high country

My day began with a nice breakfast at the Geiser Grand, established 1890 during the gold mining era and refurbished to 21st Century elegance.  The staff are rightly proud of this gem, and service was excellent all around. Then I visited the Baker City Museum, which displayed many aspects of life here, together with world class exhibits of minerals and Native American artifacts, including clothing and arrowheads. Then a visit to  Bob’s Burgers, a local inexpensive eatery and a coffee at the Coffee Corral near the museum.

Then I set out on State Highway 86 for Hell’s Canyon. I was aiming for the southern overlook.  Along the way I found Copperfield State Park, a remnant of one of Oregon’s most notorious towns hard by the Snake River miles above Farrwell Bend.  In 18.. there were massive brawls that caused Oregon’s governor to revoke Copperfield’s charter. The town eventually burned to the ground, never to be re- built, and an RV park now occupied the river, along with the Oxbow hydroelectric dam (see “Oregon, End of the Trail,” by the Works Project Administration’s federal writer’s project, Binfords & Mort, Portland, 1940). Then on to the southernmost Hell’s Canyon  Overlook on Forest Road 39.  This road wound through mountains and a seemingly endless pine forest, including the occasional ponderosa pine. It is  notable for the Angus cows that seemed to prefer asphalt to the uneven footing at the sides of the road. There were hundreds of tight turns as it elevated to the overlook.  Once there, the view was fabulous.  I could see the Seven Devils peaks at the upper end of the canyon, and others besides. Idaho’s Sawtooth range was in view, and I think that the high peaks of Sun Valley, maybe 150 miles away, were visible through a light blue haze. There was plenty of wildlife, including, deer, chipmunks, and a lone crow (a corvid!) riding the thermals near the viewpoint.

Then, down the valley to the town of Joseph, named for Chief Joseph, who was pursued through this area by U.S. troops. I Stayed at Eagle’s View Inn & Suites which boasts a spectacular view of the Wallowa (pronounced as in “allow”) mountain range. There was even a rainbow–photo attached.

View from Eagle’s View Inn & Suites
Crow Creek, Joseph, Oregon
What’s left of a hall raisin’ town in Hell’s Canyon
Inside the aptly named Geiser Grand Hotel
View into Hell’s Canyon, a.k.a. the Grand Canyon of the Snake River

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